As a part of Bodies Making Meaning, an ongoing research project and practice on the position and value of the body in the fashion system, Chet Bugter explored the phenomenon of “garments-without-bodies”. These “empty” garments appear as ghosts, void of flesh: roaming through the fashion magazine, left behind by the rapid trend-cycle of the fashion system, looking for bodies that can inhabit them. A zine and accompanying poster serve as a first exploration of the method of cutting out the garments-without-bodies from the magazine’s pages. The subsequent “see-throughs” create juxtapositions of garment, text and body. How can these alternative narratives lead to new perspectives upon the fashion magazine? 

Type: softcover and fold-out poster\ Dimensions: 148 mm x 210 mm portrait and 297 mm x 420 mm portrait\ Pages: 15\ Art direction and writing: Chet Bugter\ Graphic design: Chet Bugter\ Release date: November 2019\ Binding: folded, elastic band\ Edition: 10\ Color: Color copies\ Printer: Copy machine ArtEZ University of the Arts at the Kortestraat 27, Arnhem\ Language: English

Garments Without Bodies

This reader is a product of the PORTAL 006 classes that took place at Comenius Lyceum, a high school in Amsterdam Nieuw-West, in fall 2020. Elisa van Joolen initiated this new edition of PORTAL (2017-ongoing) for the exhibition ‘Refresh Amsterdam’ at Amsterdam Museum in collaboration with de Appel. This edition was made with group 2 students (12–14 years old) as part of ‘Kunstklassen’, an arts education programme organised by de Appel and Comenius Lyceum.

The publication shows a trail of connections between personal, economic, social, cultural and political values of the garments worn by Comenius Lyceum students.

PORTAL is a research project that explores the economic, social and emotional value of clothing and offers a ‘way in’ to understanding garments from a multitude of overlapping and intersecting perspectives.

For every edition, participants are asked to take off a garment, lay it down on a large Tyvek sheet, outline their garment with tape and answer a series of questions regarding its production (Where was it made?), materials (What is it made of?), ownership (Is it yours?) and value (How much did it cost? What is the emotional value?). Subsequently connections are made between the garments by literally drawing lines between the items of the various visitors, creating a network that reveals connections between and intersections of personal, economic, social, cultural and political realms surfacing a complex and layered system of the reality of clothing. This culminates in a map, or landscape of personal stories that connect to form a fashion network which inverts our gaze, shining a spotlight on the intricacies of our own outfits and extraordinary aspects of the everyday as opposed to the myth of the exclusive fashion image. PORTAL thus provides an entryway to a vision that begins to prioritise values that are ephemeral and yet integral in “influencing hearts and minds and shaping the way we live together”. It captures and visualises information that circumvents established hierarchies and disrupts the homogeneity of the commercially driven fashion system with the refreshing diversity of fashion that is worn; embodied and imperfect.

The collected information of each PORTAL edition is visualized and brought together in a reader using the sixteen PORTAL questions as their starting point.

Type: softcover\ Dimensions: 210 mm x 297 mm portrait\ Pages: 40\ Art Direction: Elisa van Joolen\ Research assistant: Anouk Beckers\ Text: Ali, Dina, Fatima, Hafsa, Halime, Israe, Khaled, Mohammed, Rabia, Safae, Sara, Youssef, and Zülal\ Graphic design: Bart de Baets\ Release date: Spring 2021\ Binding: staples\ Edition: 250\ Color: full color – Offset printed\ Printer: Flyeralarm\ Language: English\ Text editing: Melanie Bomans\ Made possible by: Amsterdam Museum, de Appel\ Production: Warehouse\ Production assistant: Anouk Beckers

Thank you: Anouk Beckers, Bart de Baets, Comenius Lyceum, David Smeulders, Florean Kruijswijk Jansen, Imara Limon, Imke Ruigrok, Melanie Bomans, Niels Schumm, Roos Mol, Roy Ruiters, Samuel Vulsma, Uta Eisenreich, Vincent Vulsma and a special thanks to all students!

PORTAL 006 Reader

This is not a manual in the traditional sense, with linear instructions or guidelines – rather, it is a hopefully engaging and activating collection of insights, moments and encounters, experienced during my continuing artistic research On Tour. What started out as a solo adventure consciously evolved into a collaborative and collective journey.

The intention of this manual is to inspire and support kindred individuals who are in search of an alternative rhythm of learning-working-living. Sharing multiform co-production processes and rituals of self-organisation concerning our common everyday lives.

Accompanying my own contributions, I have invited various practitioners who resonate with me on a personal and professional level to respond to our shared experiences, from and in relation to their respective practices.

The result is a textual and visual gathering of conversations, testimonials and observations, from essays to poetry, from clothing to recipes.

I recognise the realisation of this publication as an extension of my curatorial practice, in which I initiate collaborative gatherings and spaces. This manual is such a space. I see it as a living document, an ongoing conversation. An open invitation to go on a playful adventure with your own everyday ecology.

[Lenn Cox](http://lenncox.blogspot.com/) explores self-organized pioneering learning-working-living environments. She engages her curatorial nomadic practice to stimulate social ecology, by researching alternative fashion practices. Led by the values of care, support, collaboration, exploration and playfulness. Lenn initiates gatherings and spaces in cooperation with a growing group of en-gaged artists, designers, makers and thinkers; professionals as well as emerging professionals. Meeting each other as kindred spirits, together developing and sharing methods of co-production and rituals of self-organisation. So that these provide individual as well as collective support and inspiration around our everyday life, and the means to guide each other in the necessary transitionary processes that we encounter.

Type: softcover\ Dimensions: 260 mm x 185 mm portrait\ Pages: 166\ Editor: Lenn Cox\ Contributors: Tigrilla Gardenia (Damanhur), Sepideh Ardalani (Massia), Jessica Gysel (Girls Like Us, Mothers & Daughters Bar), Tomboys Donʼt Cry, Lucas Meyer (Sanctuary Slimane), Katerina Tarnovska (Asgarda), Alya Hessy, Lucie Chaptal (we made together), Marlies van Hak, Aliki van der Kruijs, Guusje de Bruin, Melanie Bomans, Niki Milioni, Rosanne van Wijk, Sanne Karssenberg, Femke de Vries\ Graphic design: Heike Renée de Wit\ Release date: October 2020\ Color: full color\ Language: English\ Editing and Translation: Melanie Bomans\  Publisher: self-published\ ISBN: 978-90-9033782-1

COLLECTIVE WANDERING | Hanging Out with Our Everyday Ecology

Now online! The JOIN-top knit pattern

Find the step-by-step manual below (free PDF-download). Special thanks to Roos Mol.

We are curious to see your works, so please share them with us. Enjoy the knitting, enjoy the making!

JOIN Collective Clothes | JOIN-top Knit Pattern

The FAT BELLY BOY BOOKLET is a first in a series of zine explorations of Chet Bugter's project _selfies as self love praxis_. 

"(...) the act of taking and uploading the selfie becomes a moment to focus on my own perception of my body, and how this body relates to its surroundings. Uploading a picture of one’s body can become quite radical when said body is “different” in comparison to normative, and subsequently fashionable bodies. Every time I post my body — often unclothed, with its stretchmarks, skinfolds, hair, sweat, large belly and chest, discolorations — onto a digital platform, it breaks the endless stream of perfectly stylized bodies that inhabit Instagram."

Type: softcover and glossy insert\ Dimensions: 148 mm x 210 mm portrait and 105 mm x 210 mm portrait\ Pages: 24\ Art direction: Chet Bugter\ Graphic design: Chet Bugter\ Assistance: Tjerre Lucas Bijker\ Release date: July 2020\ Binding: folded, paper clamp\ Edition: 10\ Color: Color copies\ Printer: Copy machine ArtEZ University of the Arts at the Kortestraat 27, Arnhem\ Language: English

Fat Belly Boy Booklet

Warehouse Wear shoelaces featuring a retelling of the shoelace's being:

I am consisting of two tail ends. I am crossed like an X – pulled on – knotted – now I have a bunny ear – I am wrapped around – looped – pulled through an opening – tightened. Now I am connected – I interweave – zigzag – entwine – fasten – I loop – fuse – assemble – close – I bound – secure  – and keep things together.

Type: woven shoelaces \ Dimensions: 120 cm by 1 cm \  Sold in pairs

Warehouse Wear | Shoelaces

\-- scroll down to download the PDF --

*A Magazine Reader 01* is the result of a workshop by Femke de Vries and Hanka van der Voet in which the students of the MA Fashion Strategy generation 27 explore the representation and meaning of luxury in the fashion magazine. In this case specifically the *British Vogue*, February 2018.

*A Magazine Reader* is an ongoing research trajectory and series of zines initiated by Femke de Vries and Hanka van der Voet. It revolves around the analysis of a mainstream and high-end fashion magazine and its translation into an alternative new zine to provide insight into the cultural power and forms of value production that is at the core of fashion media. In it, the reader becomes an active actor in the construct of fashion. Re-reading the magazine by dissecting it, analysing the words, images, materiality, the items shown on the pages and the strategies of the specific magazine changes the way we read fashion.

In the workshop one specific magazine is selected. This magazine is thoroughly read, dissected and critically analysed on elements such as models, topicality, advertisements, material, brands, distribution, imagery, items, narrative, monetary value, colours, words and order of pages. By not starting from the perspective of the fashion system as a whole, but from the simple act of reading a fashion magazine, the reader gains an active role. Having the material in hands, seeing the images, how brands are being represented on the pages, reading the words and tracing the page numbers, but also feeling the paper, the weight and being able to smell the magazine creates an awareness of the magazine as a material object. Something that embodies and communicates the process of value production in fashion. A material representation of fashion’s ephemerality, dream worlds and fantasies.

The readers in the workshop use the material of the original ‘source magazine’ to create a new zine that provides insight into the cultural power and forms of value production that is at the core of fashion media. The existing material is elaborated on by connecting with other material (theories, visuals, artistic explorations). As such, *A Magazine Reader* focuses on the reader as an active participant – someone with agency rather than a passive consumer – in the process of creating fashion. Reading becomes making.

Type: softcover\ Dimensions: 200 mm x 145 mm portrait\ Pages: 96\ Art Direction: Femke de Vries and Hanka van der Voet\ Contributors: Adriana Fox Hopper, Chet Bugter, Chinouk Filique de Miranda, Cinzia Magnani, Hester Brands, Ieva Uzkurataite, Julia Kaleta, Karmen Samson, Maria Gil Mendoza,  Marina Sasseron de Oliveira Cabral\ Graphic design: Corine van der Wal\ Release date: Spring 2018\ Binding: elastic band\ Edition: 150\ Color: Black, pink and red – riso printed\ Printer: Riso Wiso\ Language: English\ Text editing: Femke de Vries, Hester Brands and Hanka van der Voet\ Made possible by: MA Fashion Strategy at ArtEZ University of the Arts\ Production: Warehouse\ Production assistant: Hester Brands

SOLD OUT

[Sold Out] A Magazine Reader 01

*A Magazine Reader 02* is the result of a workshop by Ruby Hoette, Chet Bugter and Femke de Vries in which the students of the MA Fashion Strategy generation 27 explore the role of text in fashion magazines and how it affects our relationship to fashion. In this case specifically the *British Vogue*, November 2018.

*A Magazine Reader* is an ongoing research trajectory and series of zines initiated by Femke de Vries and Hanka van der Voet. It revolves around the analysis of a mainstream and high-end fashion magazine and its translation into an alternative new zine to provide insight into the cultural power and forms of value production that is at the core of fashion media. In it, the reader becomes an active actor in the construct of fashion. Re-reading the magazine by dissecting it, analysing the words, images, materiality, the items shown on the pages and the strategies of the specific magazine changes the way we read fashion.

In the workshop one specific magazine is selected. This magazine is thoroughly read, dissected and critically analysed on elements such as models, topicality, advertisements, material, brands, distribution, imagery, items, narrative, monetary value, colours, words and order of pages. By not starting from the perspective of the fashion system as a whole, but from the simple act of reading a fashion magazine, the reader gains an active role. Having the material in hands, seeing the images, how brands are being represented on the pages, reading the words and tracing the page numbers, but also feeling the paper, the weight and being able to smell the magazine creates an awareness of the magazine as a material object. Something that embodies and communicates the process of value production in fashion. A material representation of fashion’s ephemerality, dream worlds and fantasies.

The readers in the workshop use the material of the original ‘source magazine’ to create a new zine that provides insight into the cultural power and forms of value production that is at the core of fashion media. The existing material is elaborated on by connecting with other material (theories, visuals, artistic explorations). As such, *A Magazine Reader* focuses on the reader as an active participant – someone with agency rather than a passive consumer – in the process of creating fashion. Reading becomes making.

For this issue we have focused on reading each and every word. This process of dissecting and analysing reveals the actual structure and content of the magazine. Which words are used? Is it readable at all? Is the meaning clear? Which values are given precedence? Which brands are represented? What are the topics covered (or left out)? How are they ordered in the magazine? Where are the page numbers? Most importantly, it uncovers opportunities for the re-definition and re-imagination of these texts and their intentions. Each contribution to this edition of *A Magazine Reader* takes on a slightly different reader perspective, unravelling a particular aspect of embedded meaning and value and reframing it in a broader social and cultural context. Together they remind us that becoming aware of our position as readers means we become aware of our position to shape and create fashion.

Type: softcover\ Dimensions: 200 mm x 145 mm portrait\ Pages: 100\ Art Direction: Femke de Vries, Chet Bugter and Ruby Hoette\ Contributors: Andrea Chehade, Bobbine Berden, Boris Kollar, Chet Bugter, Denise Bernts, Emma Disbergen, Eva Kühn, Femke de Vries, Karlijn Krijger, Laura Lisa Fernandes Januario, Mariane Cortez Meirelles, Nicole Dekkers, Ruby Hoette\ Graphic design: Corine van der Wal\ Release date: Spring 2019\ Binding: elastic band\ Edition: 150\ Color: black and yellow – riso printed\ Printer: Riso Wiso\ Language: English\ Text editing: Femke de Vries, Chet Bugter and Ruby Hoette\ Made possible by: MA Fashion Strategy at ArtEZ Unicersity of the Arts\ Production: Warehouse

SOLD OUT

[Sold Out] A Magazine Reader 02

_A Magazine Reader 03_ is the result of two-day workshop by Hanka van der Voet, Zuzana Kostelanská and Femke de Vries, hosted by Onomatopee in Eindhoven. In this edition of _A Magazine Reader_ we explore how every possible element; perfume, facial creams, rosemary water, travel suggestions, gadgets, books etcetera, is used to create stories and myths of a future reality. These 'stories' are composed of so much more than garments alone, and in such a way that the joints and seams are smoothed out, turning these stories into a reality, a truth. During this workshop we disconnect the elements, break the joints, cut the seams, unravel body parts and disconnect garments from bodies, from backgrounds, objects, animals and gadgets, with the aim to create space to critically explore the construct of fashion.



_A Magazine Reader_ is an ongoing research trajectory and series of zines initiated by Femke de Vries and Hanka van der Voet. It revolves around the analysis of a mainstream and high-end fashion magazine and its translation into an alternative new zine to provide insight into the cultural power and forms of value production that is at the core of fashion media. In it, the reader becomes an active actor in the construct of fashion. Re-reading the magazine by dissecting it, analysing the words, images, materiality, the items shown on the pages and the strategies of the specific magazine changes the way we read fashion.



In the workshop one specific magazine is selected. This magazine is thoroughly read, dissected and critically analysed on elements such as models, topicality, advertisements, material, brands, distribution, imagery, items, narrative, monetary value, colours, words and order of pages. By not starting from the perspective of the fashion system as a whole, but from the simple act of reading a fashion magazine, the reader gains an active role. Having the material in hands, seeing the images, how brands are being represented on the pages, reading the words and tracing the page numbers, but also feeling the paper, the weight and being able to smell the magazine creates an awareness of the magazine as a material object. Something that embodies and communicates the process of value production in fashion. A material representation of fashion’s ephemerality, dream worlds and fantasies.



The readers in the workshop use the material of the original ‘source magazine’ to create a new zine that provides insight into the cultural power and forms of value production that is at the core of fashion media. The existing material is elaborated on by connecting with other material (theories, visuals, artistic explorations). As such, _A Magazine Reader_ focuses on the reader as an active participant – someone with agency rather than a passive consumer – in the process of creating fashion. Reading becomes making.



Type: softcover\ Dimensions: 210 mm x 155 mm portrait\ Pages: 140\ Art Directors: Femke de Vries and Hanka van der Voet\ Contributors: Abhaya Mistry, Ellen Pearson, Femke de Vries, Hanka van der Voet, Isabelle Mauduit, Marco Dalle Fratte, Patricia Nahorniac, Rebecca Nevins, Seok Park, Sophia Grancharova, Xi Ruolan\ Graphic design: Zuzana Kostelanská\ Release date: October 2019\ Binding: elastic band\ Edition: 250\ Color: black and gold – riso printed\ Printer: Onomatopee's risograph and copy machine\ Language: English\ Text editing: Femke de Vries and Hanka van der Voet\ Production: Onomatopee in collaboration with Warehouse\ Made possible by the generous support of the Provincie Noord Brabant\ Production: Joannette van der Veer for Onomatopee\ With support of Seok Park and Onomatopee interns Nathalia Malińska and Merel Steneker

[Sold Out] A Magazine Reader 03

_A Magazine Reader 04_ is the result of a workshop by Chet Bugter, Hanka van der Voet and Femke de Vries in which the students of the MA Fashion Strategy generation 29 explored the role and representation of the body in the fashion magazine. We chose the ELLE UK November 2019 issue as our material. As one of the most renowned high-end fashion magazines, ELLE plays an important role in the representation of bodies and, specifically, ideas about body standards.  

_A Magazine Reader_ is an ongoing research trajectory and series of zines initiated by Femke de Vries and Hanka van der Voet. It revolves around the analysis of a mainstream and high-end fashion magazine and its translation into an alternative new zine to provide insight into the cultural power and forms of value production that is at the core of fashion media. In it, the reader becomes an active actor in the construct of fashion. Re-reading the magazine by dissecting it, analysing the words, images, materiality, the items shown on the pages and the strategies of the specific magazine changes the way we read fashion. 

In the workshop one specific magazine is selected. This magazine is thoroughly read, dissected and critically analysed on elements such as models, topicality, advertisements, material, brands, distribution, imagery, items, narrative, monetary value, colours, words and order of pages. By not starting from the perspective of the fashion system as a whole, but from the simple act of reading a fashion magazine, the reader gains an active role. Having the material in hands, seeing the images, how brands are being represented on the pages, reading the words and tracing the page numbers, but also feeling the paper, the weight and being able to smell the magazine creates an awareness of the magazine as a material object. Something that embodies and communicates the process of value production in fashion. A material representation of fashion’s ephemerality, dream worlds and fantasies. 

The readers in the workshop use the material of the original ‘source magazine’ to create a new zine that provides insight into the cultural power and forms of value production that is at the core of fashion media. The existing material is elaborated on by connecting with other material (theories, visuals, artistic explorations). As such, _A Magazine Reader_  focuses on the reader as an active participant – someone with agency rather than a passive consumer – in the process of creating fashion. Reading becomes making.

Type: softcover\ Dimensions: 210 mm x 155 mm portrait\ Pages: 114\ Art Direction: Femke de Vries and Hanka van der Voet\ Authors: Charlotte Verdegaal, Eliza Lachkova, Julia Berg, Lindy Boerman, Lu Lin, Sophia Buter, Tanya Lauwanichpat, Chet Bugter, Femke de Vries, Hanka van der Voet\ Graphic design: Zuzana Kostelanská\ Release date: August 2020\ Binding: elastic band\ Edition: 250\ Color: pink and black – offset print\ Printer: Drukkerij Raddraaier\ Language: English\ Text editing: Chet Bugter, Femke de Vries and Hanka van der Voet\ Production: Warehouse\ Made possible by ArtEZ Fashion Masters, Fashion Strategy

A Magazine Reader 04

This edition of A Magazine Reader took place during the Summer Academy of Hordaland Kunstsenter in Norway and is created in close collaboration with Hordaland Kunstsenter and Pamflett. This issue revolves around the various elements that are being used by the fashion media, in this case the Vogue UK August 2020, to create fashion. Through analyzing, selecting, collecting, cutting, marking, categorizing, assembling and collaging, we become aware of the many elements that are used to construct fashion. Like in issue three we explore how every possible element; perfume, facial creams, rosemary water, travel suggestions, gadgets, books etcetera, is used to create stories and myths of a future reality. These 'stories' are composed of so much more than garments alone, and in such a way that the joints and seams are smoothed out, turning these stories into a reality, a truth. During this workshop we disconnect the elements, break the joints, cut the seams, unravel body parts and disconnect garments from bodies, from backgrounds, objects, animals and gadgets, with the aim to create space to critically explore the construct of fashion. 

A Magazine Reader is an ongoing research trajectory and series of zines initiated by Femke de Vries and Hanka van der Voet. It revolves around the analysis of a mainstream and high-end fashion magazine and its translation into an alternative new zine to provide insight into the cultural power and forms of value production that is at the core of fashion media. In it, the reader becomes an active actor in the construct of fashion. Re-reading the magazine by dissecting it, analysing the words, images, materiality, the items shown on the pages and the strategies of the specific magazine changes the way we read fashion. 

In the workshop one specific magazine is selected. This magazine is thoroughly read, dissected and critically analysed on elements such as models, topicality, advertisements, material, brands, distribution, imagery, items, narrative, monetary value, colours, words and order of pages. By not starting from the perspective of the fashion system as a whole, but from the simple act of reading a fashion magazine, the reader gains an active role. Having the material in hands, seeing the images, how brands are being represented on the pages, reading the words and tracing the page numbers, but also feeling the paper, the weight and being able to smell the magazine creates an awareness of the magazine as a material object. Something that embodies and communicates the process of value production in fashion. A material representation of fashion’s ephemerality, dream worlds and fantasies. 

The readers in the workshop use the material of the original ‘source magazine’ to create a new zine that provides insight into the cultural power and forms of value production that is at the core of fashion media. The existing material is elaborated on by connecting with other material (theories, visuals, artistic explorations). As such, A Magazine Reader focuses on the reader as an active participant – someone with agency rather than a passive consumer – in the process of creating fashion. Reading becomes making. 

Type: softcover\ Dimensions: 210 mm x 155 mm portrait\ Pages: 162\ Art Direction: Femke de Vries and Hanka van der Voet\ Authors: Kristina Melbø Valvik, Erika Brandl, Ida Falck Øien, Ana Henriques Brotas, Anne Cecilie Caroline Brunborg Lie, Henrik Koppen, Bastian Düvet Haukefær, Mathijs van Geest, Randi Grov Berger, Ayatgali Tuleubek, Femke de Vries, Hanka van der Voet\ Graphic design: Zuzana Kostelanská\ Release date: August 2020\ Binding: elastic band\ Edition: 200\ Color: green – riso printed\ Printer: Pamflett\ Language: English\ Text editing: Femke de Vries and Hanka van der Voet\ Production: Hordaland Kunstsenter in collaboration with Warehouse. The Summer Academy, of which the workshop was part, is generously supported by The Nordic Artists’ Center Dale, Art Council Norway and Bergen Kommune\ Production by: Robin Everett and Rhiannon Inman Simpson for Hordaland Kunstsenter

A Magazine Reader 05

In _A Magazine Reader Invites 01_, Zuzana Kostelanská folds a complete fashion magazine into a new zine. The fold shifts our perspective, cuts pages in half and re-arranges the order of the pages changing our way of reading. In _A Magazine Reader Invites_ an artist/thinker/designer is invited to re-read a fashion magazine. Every edition includes a conversation with the maker about the approach of re-reading the magazine.

_A Magazine Reader Invites_ is part of the _A Magazine Reader_ series which revolves around the analysis of a mainstream and high-end fashion magazine and its translation into an alternative new zine to provide insight into the cultural power and forms of value production that is at the core of fashion media. In it, the reader becomes an active actor in the construct of fashion. Re-reading the magazine by dissecting it, analysing the words, images, materiality, the items shown on the pages and the strategies of the specific magazine changes the way we read fashion.

_A Magazine Reader Invites_ is initiated by Hanka van der Voet and Femke de Vries. \
\
Type: softcover\ Dimensions: varying according to the source magazine\ Pages: depending on source magazine \ Art Direction: Zuzana Kostelanská\ Contributors: Femke de Vries, Hanka van der Voet, Zuzana Kostelanská\ Graphic design: Zuzana Kostelanská\ Release date: November 2019\ Binding: none\ Edition: variable\ Color: full color\ Text editing: Femke de Vries and Hanka van der Voet\ Production: Warehouse

A Magazine Reader Invites 01

D&K explores the potential of fashion practice as a site of critical questioning and ubiquitous revelations. The project was co-founded in 2012 by fashion designer and researcher Ricarda Bigolin and curator Nella Themelios (2012–2017) and includes a wide array of collaborators. The D&K LOOK BOOK 2019 questions the ubiquity and mass consumption of fashion (images), and their relationships to the products depicted and how fashion produces and circulates collections of images.

The _D&K LOOK BOOK 2019_, designed by Brad Haylock and published by Surpllus was co-launched with Mode and Mode issue seven, by Laura Gardner and Karina Soraya, which serves as an anthology of text works and biographical listings of key D&K projects from 2012 to present. Warehouse is happy to have hosted the Dutch launch of both publications.

This issue of the _D&K LOOK BOOK 2019_ features a limited edition transparent synthetic fabric cover with a silver-coloured chain and charm. 

Type: softcover\ Dimensions: 272 mm x 207 mm portrait\ Pages: 400\ Special Edition cover: transparent synthetic fabric cover with silver-coloured chain and charm\  Editor: Ricarda Bigolin\ Contributors: Clemens Thornquist, Femke de Vries, José Teunissen, Matthew Linde, Michael Beverland, Nella Themelios, Ricarda Bigolin\ Graphic design: Brad Haylock\ Release date: November 2019\ Color: full color\ Language: English\ Text editing: Mel Campbell\ Proofreaders: Laura Gardner and Chantal Kirby\ Publisher: Surpllus

D&K Look Book 2019 | All or Nothing | Special Edition Cover

D&K explores the potential of fashion practice as a site of critical questioning and ubiquitous revelations. The project was co-founded in 2012 by fashion designer and researcher Ricarda Bigolin and curator Nella Themelios (2012–2017) and includes a wide array of collaborators. The _D&K LOOK BOOK 2019_ questions the ubiquity and mass consumption of fashion (images), and their relationships to the products depicted and how fashion produces and circulates collections of images.

The _D&K LOOK BOOK 2019_, designed by Brad Haylock and published by Surpllus was co-launched with _Mode and Mode_ issue seven, by Laura Gardner and Karina Soraya, which serves as an anthology of text works and biographical listings of key D&K projects from 2012 to present. Warehouse is happy to have hosted the Dutch launch of both publications.

Type: softcover\ Dimensions: 272 mm x 207 mm portrait\ Pages: 400\ Editor: Ricarda Bigolin\ Contributors: Clemens Thornquist, Femke de Vries, José Teunissen, Matthew Linde, Michael Beverland, Nella Themelios, Ricarda Bigolin\ Graphic design: Brad Haylock\ Release date: November 2019\ Color: full color\ Language: English\ Text editing: Mel Campbell\ Proofreaders: Laura Gardner and Chantal Kirby\ Publisher: Surpllus

D&K Look Book 2019 | All or Nothing 

The _JOIN Collective Clothes Manual_ is an open-source manual that invites everyone to participate in JOIN, a project by fashion designer Anouk Beckers and graphic designer and art director Beau Bertens, that proposes fashion as a collective practice. The manual encompasses the patterns of a modular clothing system that consists of four different shapes which can be combined into a full outfit (a sleeve, a top, a trouser leg and a part of a skirt). As it is easy-to-use everyone can make the pieces themselves. This manual can also be downloaded at the [JOIN website](https://www.joincollectiveclothes.com/manual) or scroll down to download the PDF here. 

The pieces made by various makers from all over the world, subsequently form an ever-growing collection that can be seen on the _JOIN Collective Clothes_ website. 

The fashion industry focuses mostly on designer status, brand identity, commodities as magical results of invisible processes and an adoration of values such as originality and ‘the new’. And although it is often perceived as something that is not for everyone, fashion surely is a collective practice. By making and wearing clothes together, the design and research project _JOIN Collective Clothes_ proposes fashion as a collective practice.

Beside participating by downloading or buying the manual the project consists of a series of workshops and designer commissions. Everyone is invited to join one of the 4-hour workshops to design and make a garment-piece. At the end of the workshop, the results from the participants are joined into one complete outfit. The process is playful, but at the same time it critically questions the characteristics of the fashion system exploring ownership, identity, (intellectual) property, production methods, alienation, mystification and value creation in fashion together.

Initiator Anouk Beckers on _JOIN Collective Clothes_: “What if we open up the fashion system and explore it as a non-fixed entity, a system where people can playfully join in, where everyone is invited to create fashion together?”

Type: hard cover folder with loose JOIN patterns\ Dimensions: 225 mm x 178 mm x 20 mm portrait\ Art Direction: Anouk Beckers\ Graphic design: Beau Bertens\ Research Assistants: Ilse Bloemendal and Zoe Philine Pingel\ Contributor: Femke de Vries\ Pattern development: Tanja Bindels\ Release date: Spring 2019\ Edition: 500\ Pages: 7 JOIN patterns\ Color: black & white\ Printer: Wilco Art Books\ Language: English\ Made possible by: Creative Industries Fund NL and the Amsterdam Fund for the Arts\ Production: Warehouse

JOIN Collective Clothes Manual

The _JOIN Collective Conversation Magazine_ is the result of a _JOIN Collective Clothes_ workshop at MA Fashion Strategy. During this workshop the students of generation 29 together explored topics such as ownership, identity, (intellectual) property, production methods, alienation, mystification and value creation and used the _JOIN Collective Clothes_ manual to make a garment piece. At the end of the workshop the pieces were put together, photographed, reflected upon through text and brought together in this magazine.

_JOIN Collective Clothes_ is an initiative by fashion designer Anouk Beckers and graphic designer and art director Beau Bertens. Initiator Anouk Beckers on _JOIN Collective Clothes_: “What if we open up the fashion system and explore it as a non-fixed entity, a system where people can playfully join in, where everyone is invited to create fashion together?”

The fashion industry focuses mostly on designer status, brand identity, commodities as magical results of invisible processes and an adoration of values such as originality and ‘the new’. And although it is often perceived as something that is not for everyone, fashion surely is a collective practice. By making and wearing clothes together, the design and research project _JOIN Collective Clothes_ proposes fashion as a collective practice. 

The base of _JOIN Collective Clothes_ is a modular clothing system that consists of four different shapes which can be combined into a full outfit (a sleeve, a top, a trouser leg and a part of a skirt). An easy-to-use open source manual invites people to get started in designing and making the pieces themselves. This manual can be downloaded at www.joincollectiveclothes.com. The pieces made by various makers from all over the world, subsequently form an ever-growing collection that can be seen on the _JOIN Collective Clothes_ website. 

The project encompasses a series of workshops and designer commissions. Everyone is invited to join one of the 4-hour workshops to design and make a garment-piece. At the end of the workshop, the results from the participants are joined into one complete outfit. The process is playful, but at the same time it critically questions the characteristics of the fashion system.

Type: softcover\ Dimensions: 210 mm x 297 mm portrait\ Pages: 72\ Art Direction: Anouk Beckers\ Introduction text: Anouk Beckers and Chet Bugter\ Contributors: Charlotte Verdegaal, Eliza Lachkova, Julia Berg, Lindy Boerman, Lu Lin, Sophia Buter, Tanyatorn Lauwanichpat\ Text editing: Hanka van der Voet and Femke de Vries\ Graphic design: Anouk Beckers and Julia Berg\ Release date: Autumn 2019\ Binding: folding\ Edition: 100\ Color: color copied\ Printer: copy machine ArtEZ University of the Arts at the Kortestraat 27, Arnhem\ Language: English\ Made possible by: MA Fashion Strategy at ArtEZ University of the Arts\ Production: Warehouse\ Production assistant: Chet Bugter, Julia Berg, Seok Park

JOIN Collective Conversation Magazine 

_Mode and Mode_ is a periodical that addresses printed matter in fashion practice by Laura Gardner and Karina Soraya. Continuing the mission of _Mode and Mode_ in exploring experimental publishing practices at the margins of fashion, this issue shares a body of experimental text works by the critical fashion practice of D&K. Accompanying the D&K _Look Book 2019 - All or Nothing, Mode and Mode 7_ serves as an anthology of text works and biographical listings of key D&K projects from 2012 to present. 

As intrinsic to their exhibition and garment-based work, D&K produce writing—including ficto-critical prose, cut-and-paste collage, poetry, and screenwriting—to reconstitute components of fashion, such as the garment, atmospheric conditions of retail space and packaging ephemera. Their interrogation of fashion language in (and as) branding highlights the plasticity of words, which are always both meaningless and meaningful.

_Mode and Mode 7_ was co-launched with the _D&K LOOK BOOK 2019_ at San Serriffe. Warehouse is happy to have hosted the Dutch launch of both publications.

Type: softcover\ Dimensions: 271 mm x 207 mm portrait\ Pages: 70\ Editor: Laura Gardner\ Graphic design: Karina Soraya\ Release date: November 2019\ Binding: staples\ Edition: 500\ Color: mainly black\ Language: English

Mode and Mode #7 | ‘D&K LOOKBOOK 2019’

_Monument_ is a fanzine dedicated to the 'Dutch Wave', a group of Dutch fashion designers who created international fame around the turn of the century. Each number is dedicated to one designer or design duo. This first issue focuses on the work of the duo Rozema/Teunissen (Melanie Rozema and Jeroen Teunissen). 

In _Monument_, a project by stylist and fashion researcher Mary-Lou Berkulin and graphic designer Karen van der Kraats, images and texts from various archives are combined with new interviews and photography. Each issue has its own unique design and editorial approach, completely in keeping with the designer to whom the issue is dedicated. A conversation between Mary-Lou Berkulin and Rozema/Teunissen has been supplemented with quotes and texts from articles from the archive and a new long-read, written by fashion researcher Renee van der Hoek. The items from the archive have been photographed by Barrie Hullegie.\
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Some words by initiator Mary Lou Berkulin from the introduction of this first edition of _Monument_: “Rozema/Teunissen’s designs are part of a defining time in Dutch Fashion. With their work, they have paved the way for generations. But unfortunately, until today, their heritage is not tangible or visible. The majority of their archive is analogue and put together before the rise of social media and the internet. The items are held in bags, folders, in storage spaces and attics. Some lucky pieces have made it into the museum depot where they quietly lie, wrapped in acid-free paper, carefully held in climate-controlled spaces. Although this is a comfortable situation, it’s the reason they remain far from our memory. It’s a place unworthy of their essence”.

_“Monument_ aims to bring these items back to the surface. By doing so, I want to show you that we maybe first need to look back in order to move forward into changing today’s fashion system”.\
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“This is not only the story of a young, talented label, bursting with ambition and creativity, but also a story about how external factors, both local and global, can have an impact on creatives and ultimately change their perspectives”.

“After almost 20 years since they’ve been made, Rozema/Teunissen’s designs still embody an exceptionally modern look, and photographer Barrie Hullegie beautifully caught this in the three stories we created together with items from the archive. In our constant hunger for new fashion we have forgotten about the artistry that is fashion design and the amount of energy and dedication it takes for a designer to create their work. Glossies, social media and the internet are happy to help you long for change, by constantly emphasizing on ‘what’s new’. Whilst autonomous artists create a body of work during the length of their career, fashion designers are expected to reinvent themselves several times per year which subsequently, makes their previous work look irrelevant to the public. This fascinating side of fashion is the reason why this first edition is dedicated to Rozema/Teunissen. They deserve a _Monument_ for creating work that goes well beyond fashion’s transitory aspect".\
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Type: softcover\ Dimensions: 170 mm x 240 mm portrait\ Pages: 160\ Editor: Mary-Lou Berkulin\ Art direction: Karen van de Kraats\ Photography: Barrie Hullegie\ Contributor: Renee van der Hoek\ Graphic design: Karen van de Kraats\ Release date: Summer 2018\ Binding: glued\ Color: full colour\ Printer: Wilco Art Books\ Language: English\ Text editors: Hanka van der Voet and Femke de Vries (Warehouse)\ Made possible by: Creative Industries Fund NL and the Amsterdam Fund for the Arts\ Production: Warehouse

Monument Issue #1 | Rozema/Teunissen

_Monument_ is a fanzine dedicated to the 'Dutch Wave', a group of Dutch fashion designers who created international fame around the turn of the century. Each number is dedicated to one designer or design duo. This second issue focuses on the work of the duo Keupr/van Bentm (Michiel Keuper and Francisco van Benthum). Between 1997 and 2001, they challenged the fashion industry with their surprising and colorful statement collections.

In _Monument_, a project by stylist and fashion researcher Mary-Lou Berkulin and graphic designer Karen van der Kraats, images and texts from various archives are combined with new interviews and photography. Each issue has its own unique design and editorial approach, completely in keeping with the designer to whom the issue is dedicated. Central to this paper monument for Keupr/van Bentm is the work that they made between 1997 and 2001. A conversation between Mary-Lou Berkulin and Keupr/van Bentm has been supplemented with quotes and texts from articles from the archive and a new long-read, written by fashion researcher Laura Gardner. The items from the archive have been photographed by Roos Quakernaat.

Type: softcover\ Dimensions: 170 mm x 240 mm portrait\ Pages: 160\ Editor: Mary-Lou Berkulin\ Art direction: Karen van de Kraats\ Photography: Roos Quakernaat\ Contributor: Laura Gardner\ Graphic design: Karen van de Kraats\ Release date: January 2020\ Binding: glued\ Color: full colour\ Printer: Wilco Art Books\ Language: English\ Text editor: Melanie Bomans\ Editorial advisors: Hanka van der Voet and Femke de Vries (Warehouse)\ Made possible by: Creative Industries Fund NL and the Amsterdam Fund for the Arts

Monument Issue #2 | Keupr/van Bentm

_PORTAL 001_ Reader is the result of a workshop during the _Change the System_ exhibition at Museum Boijmans van Beuningen in Rotterdam in which Elisa van Joolen worked with MA Fashion Strategy students generation 27 to research the economic, social and emotional value of clothing worn by visitors of the exhibition. The collected information on 159 pieces of clothing is visualized and brought together in this reader designed by Beau Bertens.

_PORTAL_ is a research project that explores the economic, social and emotional value of clothing and offers a ‘way in’ to understanding garments from a multitude of overlapping and intersecting perspectives.

For every edition, participants are asked to take off a garment, lay it down on a large Tyvek sheet, outline their garment with tape and answer a series of questions regarding its production (Where was it made?), materials (What is it made of?), ownership (Is it yours?) and value (How much did it cost? What is the emotional value?). Subsequently connections are made between the garments by literally drawing lines between the items of the various visitors, creating a network that reveals connections between and intersections of personal, economic, social, cultural and political realms surfacing a complex and layered system of the reality of clothing. This culminates in a map, or landscape of personal stories that connect to form a fashion network which inverts our gaze, shining a spotlight on the intricacies of our own outfits and extraordinary aspects of the everyday as opposed to the myth of the exclusive fashion image. _PORTAL_ thus provides an entryway to a vision that begins to prioritise values that are ephemeral and yet integral in “influencing hearts and minds and shaping the way we live together”. It captures and visualises information that circumvents established hierarchies and disrupts the homogeneity of the commercially driven fashion system with the refreshing diversity of fashion that is worn; embodied and imperfect.

The collected information of each _PORTAL_ edition is visualized and brought together in a reader using the sixteen _PORTAL_ questions as their starting point.

For _PORTAL 001_ Elisa van Joolen worked with students from the MA Fashion Strategy programme of ArtEZ University of the Arts to research the economic, social and emotional value of clothing worn by visitors of the _Change the System_ exhibition at Museum Boijmans van Beuningen in Rotterdam. Information on 159 pieces of clothing worn by visitors was collected. The collected data is visualized and brought together in a reader designed by Beau Bertens.

Type: softcover with plastic sleeve\ Dimensions: 210 mm x 297 mm portrait\ Pages: 36\ Art Direction: Elisa van Joolen\ Researchers and contributors: Adriana Fox Hopper, Chinouk Filique de Miranda, Cinzia Magnani, Gayeon Je, Hester Brands, Ieva Uzkurataite, Julia Kaleta, Karmen Samson, Maria Gil Mendoza,  Marina Sasseron de Oliveira Cabral\ Texts by: Adriana Fox Hopper, Chinouk Filique de Miranda, Cinzia Magnani, Elisa van Joolen, Gayeon Je, Hester Brands, Ieva Uzkurataite, Julia Kaleta, Karmen Samson, Maria Gil Mendoza, Marina Sasseron de Oliveira Cabral\ Graphic design: Beau Bertens\ Release date: Spring 2018\ Binding: staples\ Edition: 300\ Color: Black, pink and red – riso printed\ Printer: Walter Books\ Language: English\ Text editor: Femke de Vries\ Made possible by: MA Fashion Strategy at ArtEZ University of the Arts, Museum Boijmans van Beuningen\ Production: Warehouse\ Production assistant: Asu Aksu

PORTAL 001 Reader 

_PORTAL 002_ Reader is the result of a workshop during the _State of Fashion_ 2018 exhibition in Arnhem in which the economic, social and emotional value of clothing worn by visitors of the exhibition, is collected and researched. The collected data is visualized and brought together in a reader designed by Beau Bertens.

_PORTAL_ is a research project that explores the economic, social and emotional value of clothing and offers a ‘way in’ to understanding garments from a multitude of overlapping and intersecting perspectives.

For every edition, participants are asked to take off a garment, lay it down on a large Tyvek sheet, outline their garment with tape and answer a series of questions regarding its production (Where was it made?), materials (What is it made of?), ownership (Is it yours?) and value (How much did it cost? What is the emotional value?). Subsequently connections are made between the garments by literally drawing lines between the items of the various visitors, creating a network that reveals connections between and intersections of personal, economic, social, cultural and political realms surfacing a complex and layered system of the reality of clothing. This culminates in a map, or landscape of personal stories that connect to form a fashion network which inverts our gaze, shining a spotlight on the intricacies of our own outfits and extraordinary aspects of the everyday as opposed to the myth of the exclusive fashion image. _PORTAL_ thus provides an entryway to a vision that begins to prioritise values that are ephemeral and yet integral in “influencing hearts and minds and shaping the way we live together”. It captures and visualises information that circumvents established hierarchies and disrupts the homogeneity of the commercially driven fashion system with the refreshing diversity of fashion that is worn; embodied and imperfect.

The collected information of each _PORTAL_ edition is visualized and brought together in a reader using the sixteen _PORTAL_ questions as their starting point.

For _PORTAL 002_ Elisa van Joolen worked with visitors of _State of Fashion_ in Arnhem. The pages of the _PORTAL 002_ reader, designed by Beau Bertens, show the surprising details that emerge from the collective document of _State of Fashion_ in Arnhem. 41% of all garments and accessories are gifts. Do we treasure or wear more often those garments that have been gifted? What does it mean to "half" own a garment, share it rather than own it or borrow it? How do these shifting relationships to ownership change our interactions with a garment and perhaps more importantly how are our interactions and relationships with other people influenced through the modes of transaction and exchange that are enabled by this?

Type: softcover with plastic sleeve\ Dimensions: 210 mm x 297 mm portrait\ Pages: 12\ Art Direction: Elisa van Joolen\ Contributor: Ruby Hoette\ Photography: Anouk Beckers and Elisa van Joolen\ Researchers: Anouk Beckers, Cleo Van Woensel, Emma De Meulenaer, Marina Sasseron de Cabral, Naomi Bruintjes, Rebecca Nevins, Stijn Pommée, Tjerre Bijker, Tonya Sudiono\ Graphic design: Beau Bertens\ Release date: Spring 2018\ Binding: staples\ Edition: 100\ Color: Black, pink and red – riso printed\ Printer: Raddraaier\ Language: English\ Text editing: Ruby Hoette\ Made possible by: State of Fashion 2018\ Production: Warehouse\ Production assistants: Anouk Beckers and Marina Sasseron de Cabral

PORTAL 002 Reader 

_PORTAL 004_ | Exercise and coloring book for children is the result of _PORTAL 004_,  a workshop in which children from the public primary school OBS Twiske, under the supervision of students of the MA Fashion Strategy, investigated the different values of clothing. In this book, which is based on the questions and outcomes of this workshop, children can actively learn more about their clothing and the different values attached to it. In this way they become more aware of how to deal with the value of clothing.

_PORTAL_ is a research project that explores the economic, social and emotional value of clothing and offers a ‘way in’ to understanding garments from a multitude of overlapping and intersecting perspectives.

For every edition, participants are asked to take off a garment, lay it down on a large Tyvek sheet, outline their garment with tape and answer a series of questions regarding its production (Where was it made?), materials (What is it made of?), ownership (Is it yours?) and value (How much did it cost? What is the emotional value?). Subsequently connections are made between the garments by literally drawing lines between the items of the various visitors, creating a network that reveals connections between and intersections of personal, economic, social, cultural and political realms surfacing a complex and layered system of the reality of clothing.This culminates in a map, or landscape of personal stories that connect to form a fashion network which inverts our gaze, shining a spotlight on the intricacies of our own outfits and extraordinary aspects of the everyday as opposed to the myth of the exclusive fashion image. _PORTAL_ thus provides an entryway to a vision that begins to prioritise values that are ephemeral and yet integral in “influencing hearts and minds and shaping the way we live together”. It captures and visualises information that circumvents established hierarchies and disrupts the homogeneity of the commercially driven fashion system with the refreshing diversity of fashion that is worn; embodied and imperfect.

The collected information of each _PORTAL_ edition is visualized and brought together in a reader using the sixteen _PORTAL_ questions as their starting point.

Type: softcover with plastic sleeve\ Dimensions: 210 mm x 297 mm portrait\ Pages: 68\ Art Direction: Elisa van Joolen\ Research assistant: Laura Lisa Januario\ Contributors: Hanka van der Voet and Femke de Vries\ Photography: Anouk Beckers and Elisa van Joolen\ Researchers: Andrea Chehade, Bobbine Berden, Boris Kollar, Denise Bernts, Emma Disbergen, Eva Kühn, Karlijn Krijger, Laura Lisa Januario, Mariane Cortez Meirelles, Nicole Dekkers\ Graphic design: Zuzana Kostelanská\ Release date: Winter 2019\ Binding: staples\ Edition: 200\ Color: Black, pink and red – riso printed\ Printer: Charles Nypels Lab, Jan van Eyck Academie\ Language: Dutch and English\ Text editing: Chet Bugter\ Translation: Hanna Steenbergen-Cockerton\ Made possible by: MA Fashion Strategy at ArtEZ University of the Arts\ Production: Warehouse\ Production assistant: Anouk Beckers

PORTAL 004 | Exercise and Coloring Book

This Portal 005 Reader is the result of the PORTAL 005 workshop that took place during the exhibition _Don’t Feed the Monster!_ at Galleri F 15, Moss Norway. During this workshop, initiated by Elisa van Joolen, the economic, social and emotional value of clothing worn by visitors of the exhibition was collected and researched. This reader brings together the resulting data from the workshop along with the data from PORTAL 001, 002 and 004, connecting the answers and insights of a total of 362 participants.  

_PORTAL_ is a research project that explores the economic, social and emotional value of clothing and offers a ‘way in’ to understanding garments from a multitude of overlapping and intersecting perspectives. 

For every edition, participants are asked to take off a garment, lay it down on a large Tyvek sheet, outline their garment with tape and answer a series of questions regarding its production (Where was it made?), materials (What is it made of?), ownership (Is it yours?) and value (How much did it cost? What is the emotional value?). Subsequently connections are made between the garments by literally drawing lines between the items of the various visitors, creating a network that reveals connections between and intersections of personal, economic, social, cultural and political realms surfacing a complex and layered system of the reality of clothing. This culminates in a map, or landscape of personal stories that connect to form a fashion network which inverts our gaze, shining a spotlight on the intricacies of our own outfits and extraordinary aspects of the everyday as opposed to the myth of the exclusive fashion image. _PORTAL_ thus provides an entryway to a vision that begins to prioritise values that are ephemeral and yet integral in “influencing hearts and minds and shaping the way we live together”. It captures and visualises information that circumvents established hierarchies and disrupts the homogeneity of the commercially driven fashion system with the refreshing diversity of fashion that is worn; embodied and imperfect. 

The collected information of each _PORTAL_ edition is visualized and brought together in a reader using the sixteen _PORTAL_ questions as their starting point.

Type: softcover\ Dimensions: 210 mm x 297 mm portrait\ Pages: 38\ Art Direction: Elisa van Joolen\ Research assistant: Anouk Beckers\ Text: Christel Vesters, Femke de Vries, Maria C. Havstam\ Graphic design: Bart de Baets\ Release date: Fall 2020\ Binding: staples\ Edition: 500\ Color: full color – Offset printed\ Printer: Flyeralarm\ Language: English\ Text editing: Femke de Vries\ Translation / English text editing: Melanie Bomans\ Made possible by: Creative Indusrties Fund NL, Galleri F 15, OsloMetUniversity\ Production: Warehouse\ Production assistant: Anouk Beckers

PORTAL 005 Reader

*Press & Fold* is a new independent fashion magazine that explores alternative fashion forms and narratives. The bi-annual magazine provides a platform for critical fashion practitioners who do not obey the rules the fashion system is currently dictating.

In a time where everything in fashion is in flux so little of it seems to be discussed on the pages of fashion magazines, forever trying to sell us more things we do not actually need. Ever since the first fashion magazine appeared the goal has been to show and sell – some more explicit than others – the latest fashions. This obsession with ‘the new’ has had a constraining influence on the development of an independent fashion media and a serious fashion critique. *Press & Fold* wants to discuss, but more importantly, imagine what fashion would like if we take away advertising and editorials, take away the need to sell something through the magazine, and instead focus on having conversations on the production, presentation, consumption of clothes and the contexts in which this takes place. *Press & Fold* focuses on a fashion reality that isn’t based solely on consuming the latest fashions but on our experiences through fashion, seeking an alternative fashion discourse that goes beyond treating fashion as a commodity.

For its inaugural issue, *Press & Fold* reflects on the relation between fashion and the street, as the street has always played a pivotal – but ever-changing – role in the generation, presentation and perpetuation of fashion. A short overview of the content: Beau Bertens researches the impact of visual language on the street by deconstructing the shopping bag and examining its rhetoric power by placing it in an editorial context, Johannes Reponen critically examines concepts of ‘street style’ and ‘streetwear’, Laura Gardner writes about how 90s art groups such as Art Club 2000, Honey-Suckle Company and Bernadette Corporation presented a critique of the institutions of fashion through the concept of ‘collectivity’, Renee van der Hoek discusses with Camiel Fortgens how to find one’s place within a changing fashion system, Ricarda Bigolin of D&K explores the slippages between workwear, streetwear and branding in the context of current high end and luxury fashion practices, Duran Lantink shows his daily observations from the streets of South Africa, the urban tales of streetwear brand AVOIDSTREET are imagined in an advertorial, Tenant of Culture reflects on narratives surrounding waste in fashion, Ruby Hoette documents items of clothing found in public spaces, reflecting on concepts inherent to the current fashion system such as newness, brand value versus material quality and uniqueness, Femke de Vries constructs a fashion column, and Elisa van Joolen proposes an alternative fashion editorial that shows the material properties of clothes by Dutch streetwear labels Bonne Suits, By Parra, Ontour and Patta with the precision of an X-ray vision.

_Press & Fold | Notes on making and doing fashion_ is initiated by Hanka van der Voet in collaboration with art director and graphic designer Beau Bertens. The magazine is a collaborative research project that connects critical fashion practitioners from all over the world.\
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Type: softcover\ Dimensions: 170 mm x 240 mm portrait\ Pages: 137\ Editor: Hanka van der Voet\ Art Director: Beau Bertens\ Contributors: AVOIDSTREET, Beau Bertens, Camiel Fortgens, D&K (Ricarda Bigolin), Duran Lantink, Elisa van Joolen, Femke de Vries, Johannes Reponen, Laura Gardner, Renee van der Hoek, Ruby Hoette, Tenant of Culture\ Graphic design: Beau Bertens\ Release date: February 2018\ Binding: glued\ Color: full colour\ Printer: Wilco Art Books\ Language: English\ Text editing: Hanka van der Voet\ Made possible by: Creative Industries Fund NL\ Production: Warehouse

Press & Fold Issue #0 | The Street Issue

_Press & Fold_ is an independent fashion magazine that explores alternative fashion forms and narratives. The magazine provides a platform for critical fashion practitioners who actively seek out the cracks and fissures in the current fashion system to propose new opportunities for making and doing fashion. More than 20 contributors – ranging from visual artists and writers to fashion designers and researchers – present their view on this issue’s theme: luxury.

From luxury characterised as uniqueness created by lowly and anonymous artisans in pre-democratic times, to made-to-measure haute couture and the cult of the star designer at the end of the 19th century, from the merging of mass market and prestige into ‘masstige’ (a term coined by Karl Lagerfeld, introducing his H&M collaboration in 2004) to the hunger for street credibility by luxury fashion houses causing them to sell 2000 euro hoodies, and from the conspicuous consumption showcased on Instagram to the explosion of wellness and self-care culture; luxury has had many faces over the past few decades.

Among a new generation of fashion designers, researchers, writers and curators, very different views on luxury, and fashion in general, exist. Motivated by the sorry state of the current fashion system and its exploitative labour practices, environmental pollution, depletion of resources and exclusionary marketing language among other things, this generation is not only critiquing the system, its individualistic approach and its limiting views on the concept of luxury (among other things), but also seeking to create alternative, more inclusive ways of defining luxury. In this issue of _Press & Fold_, we give voice to these new ideas and propositions on contemporary luxury and its material and immaterial characteristics.

These new imaginations on luxury show a radical departure from the classical interpretation of the concept; a concept that is firmly rooted in the idea that luxury is above all about abundance and indulgence, and therefore is not absolutely necessary, but a privilege for the happy few. But what actually is a ‘necessity’ in contemporary society, and what do we define as ‘abundance’? In the context of late capitalism and its inequities and growing political polarization, the ideas on what luxury constitutes are rapidly shifting. Self-care is making way for a collective form of care: for creating together, performing together, learning together, regaining agency together.

Type: softcover\ Dimensions: 170 mm x 240 mm portrait\ Pages: 160\ Editor: Hanka van der Voet Art Director: Beau Bertens\ Contributors: A March Issue, Adele Varcoe, Agnieszka Chabros, Aimée Zito Lema, Amelia Winata, Annie Wu, Beau Bertens, Chet Bugter, Colby Vexler, Danielle Bruggeman, Elisa van Joolen, Femke de Vries, Jessica Buie, Johannes Reponen, JOIN Collective Clothes, Justin Clemens, Laura Gardner, Maria Kley, Rowan McNaught, Storage Solutions, Shanzai Lyric\ Graphic design: Beau Bertens\ Release date: November 2019\ Binding: glued\ Color: full colour\ Printer: Wilco Art Books\ Language: English\ Text editing: Hanka van der Voet\ Made possible by: Creative Industries Fund NL\ Production: Warehouse

Press & Fold Issue #1 | The Luxury Issue

_What To Buy For The Fashion-Focused Reader In Your Life p.33_ is a transcription and categorization of the paratexts from one renowned high-end fashion magazine per month, spanning the course of a full year. The document, put together by Femke de Vries, serves as an archive and textual work that, by isolating and categorizing titles, subtitles and captions, brings the use of text in luxury fashion magazines to the surface.  

 The first general association with fashion is probably clothes, shopping, fashion shows and after that maybe magazines and their dazzling imagery but it’s not very likely to think of text when thinking of fashion. Nevertheless, it is an important actor within the construct of fashion. Text is respected in fashion as a tool for journalists to write reviews for shows, reports, and interviews, but the strongest and less noticed types of text in fashion are captions, titles and subtitles in fashion magazines or online media, words on clothes and the act of speaking. Texts on clothes or in magazines are explicit but often not really read. We only just browse through a magazine, but when do we really read it and when do we ever speak it out loud? However, it is through captions and titles that garments are assigned certain values, such as 'cool', 'casual', 'masculine', 'amazing' or 'new', even though the garment in itself doesn’t inhabit these values. The text can therefore create new ‘worlds’ around garments. This is how a garment can be turned into fashion. And it is through the choice and use of certain words and values in these fashion descriptions, and also the invention of new words (‘athleisure’ for example), that we can read today's cultural, social and economic values.

Type: softcover\ Dimensions: 210 mm x 297 mm portrait\ Pages: 38\ Art Direction: Femke de vries\ Research with: Ashley Martiniello, Chet Bugter and Chinouk Filique de Miranda\ Graphic design: Zuzana Kostelanská\ Release date: Spring 2020\ Binding: elastic band\ Edition: 40\ Color: black - Offset printed\ Printer: Drukkerij Kaboem\ Language: English\ Text editing: Chet Bugter and Femke de Vries\ Made possible by: Jan van Eyck Academy

[Sold Out] What To Buy For The Fashion-Focused Reader In Your Life p.33

*Warehouse Review* is a publication that aims to explore alternative modes of fashion criticism. The series intends to fill gaps left by the fashion industry when it comes to fashion critique. *Warehouse Review* strives to give a thorough analysis and contextualisation of various contemporary fashion phenomena. The inaugural issue of *Warehouse Review*, titled ‘People Wearing Off-White’, is dedicated to Virgil Abloh’s highly visible and recognizable luxury streetwear brand Off-White.

The project started as the documentation of a personal fascination with the overwhelming presence of a yellow industrial belt and a logo with crossed arrows on the streets of Amsterdam. What was it, and where did it originate from? And why was it so popular? At the end of the summer of 2019, Warehouse co-founder Hanka van der Voet started documenting people wearing Off-White she encountered in the streets. The results were collected through her Instagram stories. Using the hashtag #peoplewearingoffwhite, Hanka asked her followers to contribute images as well. In five months time, a collection of over 200 images of people wearing Off-White was established. Starting off as an obsession with collecting the images, this project quickly turned into a fascination with Off-White designer Virgil Abloh, the immense popularity of his brand, and the lack of contextualisation the mainstream fashion media was providing for this phenomenon.

‘People Wearing Off-White’ offers a fresh critique on Virgil Abloh’s presence in the fashion and art world. It dissects the hype by addressing the specific brand language, analysing Off-White’s Instagram presence and providing a new perspective on one of Off-White’s most popular product: the yellow industrial belt. The publication also presents an analytical essay and overview of the #peoplewearingoffwhite photo collection. How did this brand come into being, in what context can it exist and what tactics are used to build this specific brand image? Designed by Line Arngaard, the zine features contributions by Chinouk Filique de Miranda, Denise Bernts, Femke de Vries and Hanka van der Voet.

Type: softcover\ Dimensions: 110 mm x 195 mm portrait\ Pages: 76\ Editor: Hanka van der Voet\ Art Direction: Line Arngaard\ Contributors: Chinouk Filique de Miranda, Denise Bernts, Femke de Vries, Hanka van der Voet\ Graphic design: Line Arngaard\ Release date: 23 July 2020\ Binding: stapled\ Color: full colour\ Printer: Kortestraat, Arnhem\ Language: English\ Text editing: Hanka van der Voet\ Production: Warehouse

NOT FOR SALE / SWAPPING ONLY

Send your swap proposal to <hanka@thisiswarehouse.com>.

Warehouse Review 001 | People Wearing Off-White

For Warehouse Wear | The Face Mask Series, we have invited five critical fashion practitioners from various corners of the world to share their propositions for a - for many of us - new character in our wardrobes: the face mask. The participants are FEMAIL (United States), HAiKw/ (Norway), Lucia Cuba (Peru), Sho Konishi (Japan) and Schueller de Waal (The Netherlands). The Covid-19 circumstances require that many of us start wearing face masks in public life from now on. They are becoming an integrated part of our daily lives and our appearance in public space. Besides that, the face mask is a garment that brings forward mixed responses; it reminds us of infectious diseases and danger but it can also be seen as an act of solidarity towards others.

First up, US-based design duo FEMAIL continue their collaborative postal-based-practice by creating a fun *foot2face* solution that revolves around human connection and includes a pair of socks and stockings.

The items of the Warehouse Wear Face Mask Series will not be sold, but will be released through do-it-yourself video- and .pdf tutorials - inviting everyone to start getting acquainted with the face mask and make one themselves. You can find the video tutorial over on our [IGTV-channel](https://www.instagram.com/amsterdam.warehouse/channel/), and the .pdf-tutorial as a free download below.

Warehouse Wear | The Face Mask Series I

For Warehouse Wear | The Face Mask Series, we have invited five critical fashion practitioners from various corners of the world to share their propositions for a - for many of us - new character in our wardrobes: the face mask. The participants are FEMAIL (United States), HAiKw/ (Norway), Lucia Cuba (Peru), Sho Konishi (Japan) and Schueller de Waal (The Netherlands). The Covid-19 circumstances require that many of us start wearing face masks in public life from now on. They are becoming an integrated part of our daily lives and our appearance in public space. Besides that, the face mask is a garment that brings forward mixed responses; it reminds us of infectious diseases and danger but it can also be seen as an act of solidarity towards others.

The second contribution for Warehouse Wear | The Face Mask Series comes from Schueller de Waal: a Dutch fashion label and design studio by Philipp Schueller and Rens de Waal. Incorporating a humorous attitude, the cucumber-based face mask illustrates their belief in Fashion as Therapy and presents the most hydrating option.

The items of the Warehouse Wear Face Mask Series will not be sold, but will be released through do-it-yourself video- and .pdf tutorials - inviting everyone to start getting acquainted with the face mask and make one themselves. You can find the video tutorial over on our [IGTV-channel](https://www.instagram.com/amsterdam.warehouse/channel/), and the .pdf-tutorial as a free download below.

Warehouse Wear | The Face Mask Series II

For Warehouse Wear | The Face Mask Series, we have invited five critical fashion practitioners from various corners of the world to share their propositions for a - for many of us - new character in our wardrobes: the face mask. The participants are FEMAIL (United States), HAiKw/ (Norway), Lucia Cuba (Peru), Sho Konishi (Japan) and Schueller de Waal (The Netherlands). The Covid-19 circumstances require that many of us start wearing face masks in public life from now on. They are becoming an integrated part of our daily lives and our appearance in public space. Besides that, the face mask is a garment that brings forward mixed responses; it reminds us of infectious diseases and danger but it can also be seen as an act of solidarity towards others.

The next contribution to Warehouse Wear | The Face Mask Series comes from Japanese fashion designer Sho Konishi. In his practice, he often works with different forms of facial coverage. In the video tutorial, he uses a simple pattern and shows step-by-step how to create his version of a face mask that includes decorative threads and straps.

The items of the Warehouse Wear Face Mask Series will not be sold, but will be released through do-it-yourself video- and .pdf tutorials - inviting everyone to start getting acquainted with the face mask and make one themselves. You can find the video tutorial over on our [IGTV-channel](https://www.instagram.com/amsterdam.warehouse/channel/), and the .pdf-tutorial as a free download below.

Warehouse Wear | The Face Mask Series III

For Warehouse Wear | The Face Mask Series, we have invited five critical fashion practitioners from various corners of the world to share their propositions for a - for many of us - new character in our wardrobes: the face mask. The participants are FEMAIL (United States), HAiKw/ (Norway), Lucia Cuba (Peru), Sho Konishi (Japan) and Schueller de Waal (The Netherlands). The Covid-19 circumstances require that many of us start wearing face masks in public life from now on. They are becoming an integrated part of our daily lives and our appearance in public space. Besides that, the face mask is a garment that brings forward mixed responses; it reminds us of infectious diseases and danger but it can also be seen as an act of solidarity towards others.

The fourth participant of Warehouse Wear | The Face Mask Series is HAiKw/, a Norwegian fashion project created by Harald Lunde Helgensen, Siv Støldal and Ida Falck Øien. They designed a mask that also functions as an aromatic diffuser for influencing your energy or state of mind. The maker and wearer of the mask can use one of the recommended blends in the tutorial, or build a mixture of scents themselves.

The items of the Warehouse Wear Face Mask Series will not be sold, but will be released through do-it-yourself video- and .pdf tutorials - inviting everyone to start getting acquainted with the face mask and make one themselves. You can find the video tutorial over on our [IGTV-channel](https://www.instagram.com/amsterdam.warehouse/channel/), and the .pdf-tutorial as a free download below.

Warehouse Wear | The Face Mask Series IV

For Warehouse Wear | The Face Mask Series, we have invited five critical fashion practitioners from various corners of the world to share their propositions for a - for many of us - new character in our wardrobes: the face mask. The participants are FEMAIL (United States), HAiKw/ (Norway), Lucia Cuba (Peru), Sho Konishi (Japan) and Schueller de Waal (The Netherlands). The Covid-19 circumstances require that many of us start wearing face masks in public life from now on. They are becoming an integrated part of our daily lives and our appearance in public space. Besides that, the face mask is a garment that brings forward mixed responses; it reminds us of infectious diseases and danger but it can also be seen as an act of solidarity towards others.

In the last installment of Warehouse Wear | The Face Mask Series, Peruvian designer Lucia Cuba addresses a group that might have a lot of difficulty understanding why everyone is suddenly wearing a face mask — children. Using her tutorial, parent and child can work together and create a mask for the child’s favourite toy; making sense of the world in a pandemic by playing and making together.

The items of the Warehouse Wear Face Mask Series will not be sold, but will be released through do-it-yourself video- and .pdf tutorials - inviting everyone to start getting acquainted with the face mask and make one themselves. You can find the video tutorial over on our [IGTV-channel](https://www.instagram.com/amsterdam.warehouse/channel/), and the .pdf-tutorial as a free download below.

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